Victorian brooch in 18kt gold with amethyst. 19th century. 18-carat gold brooch with a thin metal chain hanging down, ending in a gold safety pin intended to hold light decorative elements or to be fixed to the fabric, giving some movement to the jewel. The centre of attention is an oval faceted-cut amethyst, with a fine setting so as not to distract attention from the gem's frame. This is made up of an elaborate and delicate composition: in the centres of the sides there are four rectangular pieces with the smaller ends curved, decorated with fine plant elements and scrolls reminiscent of classicism; these elements are interspersed with two concave scrolls that flank a leaf (which also has a fine plant decoration in light relief); this frame is visually joined to the gem by a series of elements that resemble fine bows with a decoration similar to that of the aforementioned rectangular pieces. Historically, the Victorian era began in 1837 with the coronation of a young Queen Victoria in England, and ended in 1901 with her death. It was the era of greatest development of the Industrial Revolution, something that also influenced jewelry thanks to important technological advances in practically all fields (hydraulic energy, steam engines, gas, etc. influenced the machinery to be used), and England's broad political dominance allowed for the use of "exotic" materials from the colonies. Advances in machinery allowed for slightly lower costs in jewelry, new cuts in gems with a greater number of facets (thanks to faster lathes), new developments in alloys (lowering of gold alloys since 1854 in England, introduction of galvanization...), etc. As for the designs, these were always marked by Queen Victoria's taste. Thus, in general, three stages can be distinguished: the Early Victorian or Romantic Period (c. 1837-1860), often inspired by the world of nature; the Middle Victorian or Great Period (c. 1860-1885), marked by mourning for the death of the Queen's mother and her husband Albert in the same year and the Civil War in the United States among other events, influenced by the archaeological discoveries of the time and technical innovations in enamelling and gold granulation, and the frequent presence of gems; the Late Victorian or Aesthetic Period (1885-1901), marked by the discovery of diamond mines in Africa, which made stones cheaper, allowing for more frequent use in jewellery, more frequent use of ivory and soft colour combinations, and a reduction in the size of the works as a general rule. Measurements: 4.7 x 4.4 cm. Weight: 21.07 grams.
· Size: 4,7 x 4,4 cm.
ANTIQUES
Ref.: JBR0196
